Cooking School vs Cooking Vacation

There is a difference between a school and a vacation. Sometimes. What I am looking for is somewhere in between. I want hands-on cooking experience. I could care less about tours to local wineries, cheese makers and olive groves. I will go to the markets in the town. I do not need an escorted tour. You move too quickly and never ooh and aah over the same things that I like. I would like to pick my own place to have dinner. I do not want to have to spend one week at a chateau with only 2 cooking demonstrations. It is not important to me to see the historical sights. I just want to learn how to cook really good regional food in the tiny amount of time that I have. 2 weeks. That is all.